By Carlos González Torres

According to Charles Coulombe in his book “Rum: The Epic Story of the Drink that Conquered the World,” by 1667 this sugar cane derived spirit was already known as rum in English, and ron in Spanish, just over a decade after the beverage was first reported in the West Indies, specifically in Barbados. 

The origin of the word itself is as mysterious as it is interesting.

The word rum is believed to originate from rumbullion or rombustion, which in turn, according to Coulombe meant a “great tumult.” It is not difficult to associate this definition to the effect of one-to-many shots of rum might have on a person. 

Today rum is a sought-after spirit in stylish drinks and is the center of attention in tastings by connoisseurs. Its main purpose however was to produce sugar, which was the main reason sugar cane was brought to the Caribbean as early as Christopher Columbus travelled to the region. 

All colonial powers – the English, Spanish, Portuguese, Dutch and even the Danish – covered their respective colonies with this tall grass called sugar cane – to satisfy the sweet tooth of the Europeans. 

The process of cultivating sugar yielded two by-products: sugar cane juice and molasses. 

It is believed that sugar cane farmers passed the task over to slaves and their descendants, who toiled in these plantations, so that the upper echelon of Europe could sweeten their tea, coffee, and pastries. 

According to Coulombe, the poor settlers on the islands discovered that they could ferment these by-products, especially molasses, into a stiff alcoholic drink that would offer some kind of respite. 

Farmers took note and decided to partake not only in the drinking, but also in its production and commercialization, and brought over from Europe the technology used to distill other alcoholic spirits aimed at refining the characteristics of the product. 

It seems that the Spanish were not that keen in rum as a commodity in their Caribbean goods and concentrated on the cultivating of sugar cane for the purpose of producing sugar. 

However, it is a known fact that something was being distilled in these Spanish properties. As far back as the 18th century, the chronicler friar Iñigo Abbad y Lasierra in his “Geographic, civil and natural history of the island of Saint John the Baptist of Puerto Rico” praised the quality of the aguardiente, a type of distilled alcoholic spirit that contains between 29% and 60% alcohol by volume, produced in the Haciendas of Toa Baja. 

This aguardiente was usually produced for local consumption, being less aged and easier to produce than rum. It was made from cane juice and not molasses. The aguardiente produced in the Hacienda of Agustín Lasua in Toa Baja is said to be one of the best produced in Puerto Rico, and even hints that there were alcoholic spirits distilled on the island in other locations. 

Puerto Rico has certainly come a long way since the times of Abbad y Lasierra, becoming known as one of the top producers of high-quality premium rums – a reputation that began in the late 1800’s and solidified in the 20th century. 

The late 1800’s saw the birth of rums like Don Q and Ron Barrilito, two brands that have become icons of premium rums produced on the island. 

Furthermore, in the 1930’s Bacardi, which was originally founded in Cuba, launched rum production operations in Puerto Rico, further strengthening Puerto Rico’s reputation as a producer of top-quality premium rums. 

And while legacy brands like Don Q, Bacardi, and Barrilito paved the way and cemented Puerto Rico as rum capital of the world, the latest upsurge in local craft rums such as Ron Artesano, that aim to offer a unique tasting experience, are already writing – or distilling – the next chapter of the island’s rum history.

So, when you sip that cocktail made with rum, or just enjoy a nice dark rum on the rocks, keep in mind that in a way you are tasting history!